Pirates and Privateers

After the plunder was shared out, pirates tended to spend with the same alacrity as sand falling in an hourglass. Alexandre Exquemelin wrote:

[W]henever they have got hold of something, they don’t keep it for long. They are busy dicing, whoring and drinking so long as they have anything to spend. Some of them will get through a good two or three thousand pieces of eight in a day – and next day not have a shirt to their back. I have seen a man in Jamaica give 500 pieces of eight to a whore, just to see her naked. (Exquemelin, 81-82)

Pirates tended not to be overly particular in what they ate or drank. Variety was certainly a better option in a haven like Port Royal or Tortuga, but sometimes they simply took advantage of what was at hand. In 1719, William Snelgrave described how the crews of Howell Davis and Thomas Cocklyn partook of what they pillaged from his cargo.

They hoisted upon Deck a great many half Hogsheads of Claret, and French Brandy; knock’d their Heads out, and dipp’d Canns and Bowls into them to drink out of: And in their Wantonness threw full Buckets of each sort upon one another. As soon as they had emptied what was on the Deck, they hoisted up more: And in the evening washed the Decks with what remained in the Casks. As to bottled Liquor of many sorts, they made such havock of it that in a few days they had not one Bottle left: For they would not give themselves the trouble of drawing the Cork out, but nick’d the Bottles, as they called it, that is, struck their necks off with a Cutlace; by which means one in three was generally broke: Neither was there any Cask-liquor left in a short time, but a little French Brandy.

As to Eatables, such as Cheese, Butter, Sugar, and many other things, they were as soon gone. For the Pirates being all in a drunken Fit, which held as long as the Liquor lasted, no care was taken by any to prevent this Destruction: Which they repented of when too late. (Snelgrave, 34-35)

The buccaneers and pirates who prowled the Caribbean Sea partook of the rich cornucopia of provisions available to them. Port Royal, which was likened to the biblical city of Sodom because of the proliferation of ordinaries, taverns, and punch houses, offered a variety of drinks.

The most popular beverage of choice for pirates, according to contemporary accounts, was punch. The main ingredient was usually rum and lemons or limes were then added. The concoctions could vary from one time to the next, because it depended on what ingredients were available. Punch originated in Asia, where it required five elements to make: arrack, lime juice, spices, sugar, and water. The trading companies were responsible for bringing punch to the west. In the West Indies and Colonial America, rum was substituted for the arrack.

If a pirate favored drink in an establishment, it was often an ordinary or tavern. (The latter term was becoming more popular around the turn of the eighteenth century.) Another term for where drinks were served was “punch house,” although the clientele was often of the lower class. “Punch house” also came to mean brothel, but it was initially a drinking establishment that served an alcoholic punch. Père Jean Baptiste Labat’s recipe used “two parts eau-de-vie (brandy, or in the New World, rum) to one part water. Add . . . cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, a crust of toasted bread . . . egg yolks . . . Milk or cream may be substituted for the water.” (Little, Sea, 247) He considered this beneficial to one’s health, and the recipe was easily adapted to suit the maker’s or drinker’s tastes. The proportions to use were “one of sour (the citrus fruit), two of sweet (sugar or syrup), three of strong (rum), and four of weak (water). It could be served warm or iced in a punchbowl into which men would dip their drinking vessels before knocking back a throatful.” (Pirate’s, 113)

Rum, the main ingredient in West Indian punch, was the favored distilled liquor of pirates. It was originally known as “Rumbuillion, alias Kill-Divil,” according to a visitor to Barbados in 1651. He likened the drink to being “a hot, hellish, and terrible liquor.” (Sanna, 121) This was because it lacked a pleasant taste. Time and improvements to the distillation process changed that. Another benefit was that rum was cheap since the materials needed to make it were produced in the Caribbean and didn’t have to be imported. A variation that pirates favored was blackstrap rum, a dark mix of rum, molasses, and yeast that originated on the Caribbean islands.

Rum and punch, however, were not the only beverages available to pirates.

Cyder is the most plentiful here of all Liquors, besides which they have Mead, Methlegin, Perry, and Peach Drink. The Beer not good. Madeira Wine is the only Wine used. Rum is sold for Three pence the Half Pint, or Ten pence a Quart. Half a Pint of Rum being mixed with three Half Pints of Water or Small Beer makes Bombo, but mixed with Cyder, makes Sampson, an Intoxicating Liquor. (Ashmead, 189)

The Normans first introduced cider to England after the 1066 Battle of Hastings. The primary ingredient was apples, and the liquid was fermented. On occasion, it was mixed with the juice of pears, but if there were more pears than apples in the concoction, the drink became known as “perry.”

George Ellwood of Port Royal wrote that “our drink is chiefly Madeira wine, lemmonadoes, punch and brandy; for cool drinks, mobby wee have made of potatoes, cacao-drink, sugar-drinke and rap made of molassis.” (Pawson, 140) (Substitute “splash” for “rap.”) In 1704, diarist Francis considered Madeira to be “a racy strong-bodied noble wine, both red and white.” (Little, Sea, 247) It kept better than other wines in hot climates, such as that of the West Indies. Madeira was also one of the ingredients in Labat’s recipe for Sang-gris (sangria), which was mixed in “a crystal or earthenware bowl” with “sugar, lemon or lime juice, a little ground cinnamon and ground clove, lots of nutmeg, and a crust of toasted bread, even a bit burned.” This concoction was then set aside to let the flavors blend, after which the sangria was poured through “a linen cloth” before drinking. (Little, Sea, 247-248) Labat also liked limonade à l’anglaise (English lemonade), which was made with “Canary sack, sugar, lemon or lime juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, and ‘a small amount of essence of amber.’” (Little, Sea, 248) (Sack was white wine.) From his perspective it was “as delicious as it is dangerous.” (Little, Sea, 248)

Flip was concocted with “hot small beer and brandy sweetened and spiced upon occasion.” (Marley, 2:599) (“Small” equated to beer to which water was added.) A red-hot iron was plunged into it, giving it a frothy appearance and a taste that was burnt and bitter.

Other beverages that could be imbibed included mauby (mobby), sherry, shrub, and whiskey. Mauby could be made from a variety of ingredients; in the Caribbean, the main one was often manioc or sweet potatoes. These were boiled and pressed, before a sweetener like molasses or sugar and sometimes ginger was added. After three hours, the liquid was ready to serve. Variations to the recipe incorporated snakeroot, apple juice, peach juice, cinnamon, or cloves. Shrub mixed raspberries, cherries, lemons, or oranges to brandy, sugar, and white wine. There was a rum version of shrub as well.

If alcoholic beverages were not what a pirate sought, he could drink chocolate, coffee, or tea. Rather than the smooth blends found today, colonial offerings usually came from a single plantation. This meant the taste could be unpredictable from one time or place to another. One pirate who “drank his Tea constantly” was Bartholomew Roberts. (Defoe, 213)

One popular establishment in Port Royal catered to a higher class of patrons than the everyday pirate. Barre’s Tavern served several specialties: “silabus [sic], cream tarts, and other quelque choses.” (Marley, 1:39) Syllabub was a dessert made from cream, citrus juice, and wine. The clear liquids sank while the cream rose to the top.

While such beverages were plentiful and inexpensive, the same wasn’t true of food, even though Port Royal markets offered a wide array of possibilities. In 1687, Francis Crow described the city as being “one of the most expensive, dear places in the known world for all manner of provisions.” The reason? Much of the food had to be imported.

Pirate Banquet
(Source: Shutterstock AI)

Port Royal had three markets. The central market on High Street offered a variety of fowl, fruits, and herbs. The first included “turkies, ducks, cappons, widgeon, teel, pidgeen, doves and parratts.” (Pawson, 140) “[B]eef, mutton, veal, lamb, kid and hog’s flesh” and turtle were sold at the market at the west end of the street. On the wharf near Wherry Bridge was where customers went for fish. If there was one food that was in short supply it was fresh bread, even though there was at least one baker in Port Royal. William Wingar used flour “too stale for a good loaf,” and according to one customer, “not well rellish’t.” (Pawson, 141)

Sometimes, the fare offered for meals depended on one’s location. Asian pirates often dined on rice, salted fish, and dried vegetables, but New Year’s Day and some religious days called for special treats like fresh vegetables and fruits while pork and poultry replaced water creatures.

In 1809, Richard Glasspoole spent three months as the “guest” of Chinese pirates.

Rats in particular, which they encourage to breed, and eat them as great delicacies;* in fact, there are very few creatures they will not eat. During our captivity we lived three weeks on caterpillars boiled with rice. They are much addicted to gambling, and spend all their leisure hours at cards and smoking opium.

*The Chinese in Canton only eat a particular sort of rat, which is very large and of a whitish colour. (Neumann, 128)

Edward Brown, a seaman working aboard a Chinese ship, found himself taken by pirates in the late 1850s. During this time, he sampled “bee-chew.”

The liquor, which they called be-chew, was poured into little cups, and served out hot to each person. It was a very suspicious-looking fluid. . . . As soon as I put it to my lips, I knew what “blue ruin” was; for this bee-chew was of a dull blue colour, and it tasted, ugh! of what did it not taste? bilge-water, vitriol, turpentine, copal varnish, tar, fire, and castor oil! An entire stranger might have fancied that garlic had been boiled in it. All Chinese liquor has a very unpleasant flavour, or twang; but this, being pure and unadulterated, was real fire itself, “chain lightning!” (Brown, 49)

Some buccaneers wrote narratives of their voyages and often provided information about the foods they ate. Lionel Wafer mentioned eating alligators, particularly the tail, and guanos.

The Guano is all over very good Meat, preferr’d to a Pullet or Chicken, either for the Meat or Broth. Their Eggs also are very good; but those of the Alligator have too much of a musky Flavour, and sometimes smell very strong of it. (Wafer, 112-113)

The crew of Bartholomew Sharp dined on monkeys, oysters, rabbits, snakes, and turtles during the summer of 1680, which one pirate described as “excellent good food.” (Bialuschewski, 99) In December, Sharp’s buccaneers were raiding Coquimbo (Chile).

Here we staid four days to refresh our selves, finding plenty of Hogs, Fowls, Mutton, and Sallads, with very good Wine, which is made here, also great Store of Wheat, Baly, and all European Grain, and many large Orchards . . . of Apples, Pears, Cherries, &c. Likewise delicate Gardens of Apricocks, Peaches, Strawberries, Gooseberries, and other Fruit. (Sharp, 41)

A popular dish among pirates was salmagundi, an Anglicized version of the French salmigondis. This was a well-seasoned stew made from a variety of meats and vegetables. The ingredients depended on what was at hand when it was made. The meat was

roasted, chopped into chunks and marinated in spiced wine, then combined with cabbage, anchovies, pickled herring, mangoes, hardboiled eggs, palm hearts, onions, olives, grapes and any other pickled vegetables that were available. The whole would them be highly seasoned with garlic, salt, pepper, and mustard seed, and doused with oil and vinegar—and served with drafts of beer and rum. (Marley, 2:762)

Also known as Solomon Gundy, salmagundi could also be served cold and was similar to a chef’s salad. In this case, it was “dressed with oil, vinegar, lime or lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic, and so forth.” (Little, Sea, 250)

The favorite dish among the buccaneers was barbecue, but the pirates did not just sit down and feed themselves. Père Labat attended one of these rituals in 1698. Preparations began at nine in the morning.

The first thing to be done on these occasions is for everyone to set to work. The laziest had to make two brochettes for each buccaneer. For this purpose they cut sticks as thick as one’s finger, which are then barked and smoothed. One brochette should have two prongs while the other has but a point. The other guests made the boucan. This is a grill on which the whole pig has to be cooked. To make the boucan four forked sticks, about four feet long and as thick as your arm, are driven into the ground to form an oblong structure about four feet long by three feet wide. Crosspieces of wood are placed in the forks of these posts. On these one arranges the grill, which is also made of sticks, and all this contraption is well tied together with lianes (woody vines). The pig is placed on this bed on its back, the belly wide open and kept in position with sticks to prevent it from closing up when the file is lighted. (Labat, 53)

After a roaring fire was “reduced to charcoal,” it was shoveled under the wild boar. Tree bark was used for this task because “it is against all the rules to use any metal instruments, such as shovels, or tongs, or plates, dishes, spoons or forks.” (Labat, 53)
The next step was to prepare the pig.

[T]he belly of the pig must be filled with lime-juice and plenty of sal, and crushed pimento (allspice). (Labat, 53-54)

While dinner cooked, breakfast was eaten if desired. Should the buccaneer want “a shot (un coup) of wine,” it had to be drunk from a gourd (coüi). Once they broke their fast, more work had to be done. (Labat, 54)

Some went shooting, others collected balisier, cachibou leaves, and ferns to make the tablecloth and napkins. Some looked after the pig to see it cooked slowly, and that the gravy penetrated the meat. This operation is effected by pricking the pig with the point of a brochette, but care must be taken, however, not to stick the brochette through the skin and thus allow the gravy to fall into the fire.

When the boucan was judged to be sufficiently cooked, the hunters were recalled by firing a couple of shots . . .  As the hunters arrived their game was plucked and thrown into the pig’s belly, or it was spitted and placed near the fire to roast. Hunters who brought nothing were . . . told that they must go back and shoot something or pay the last penalty. If they were old buccaneers they were punished on the spot by having to drink as many “shots”, one after the other, as the most successful hunter had brought in birds. The only mercy that can be shown them, if it is proved that bad fortune and not carelessness has been the cause of their crime, is to give them the choice of the liquor that they have to drink. In the case of novices . . . those who assist . . . for the first time . . . their punishment depends on the master of the boucan. (Labat, 55)

Grace was said before the buccaneers sat down to eat.

Each person laid beside him his two brochettes, his knife, his coüi for drinking, and a cachibou leaf. This cachibou leaf is cut into a square, the four corners of which are bent up and tied to each other with small lianes so as to make a bowl. It is in this bowl that one puts the gravy, which is made sweeter or more piquant according to taste. (Labat, 55-56)

The pirate chosen as “master of the boucan” served each buccaneer.

Armed with a large fork in his left hand and a great knife in his right, he . . . cuts big slices of pork without damaging the skin, and puts them on balisier leaves which the waiters carry to the guests. A large coüi full of gravy and another full of lime-juice, pepper, salt and pimento stand in the centre of the table, and from these each guest mixes his gravy according to his taste. When the first helping is finished the older buccaneers get up and serve the others. Lastly the novices carve the pig . . . . (Labat, 56)

Drinking was essential throughout the meal. “The law compels it, the sauce invites one to do so, and few err in this respect.” (Labat, 56)


. . . To be continued

Part 1: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry          Part 2: Pirates Party Hearty          Part 3: Articles and Taverns

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While I worked on this article, my father passed away. He shared his affinity for the water and boats with me in my youth, which helped awaken a desire to write about pirates. This article is for him. Now that you are at peace and without pain, Dad, may you eat, drink, and be merry. Lee Aker Rest in peace

Copyright ©2024 Cindy Vallar

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